Recipe, interrupted

Recipe: Spaghetti with Tomato, Fennel, and Tuna

This recipe was inspired by Julia, who was looking for a way to use fennel stalks, and by Serena, whom I ran into at the Food Coop and who prodded me to buy pasta of the quality that she was accustomed to in Italy. “It’s worth it,” she promised as she tucked a super long package of spaghetti into my cart. Thank you, my friends! I love that there’s always something new to try in the kitchen.

A shorter pasta with nooks and crannies to hold the chunkier bits in the sauce would be the more classic choice, but this pasta was quite sturdy and held up fine. And Serena was right, the difference was worth the 3 dollars I would have saved if I had bought a more mass market brand. The pasta was paler than what I’d expect from semolina, but had small specks that gave it a very faint whole grain appearance. It also had a very light nuttiness.

Serves Four

Preparation time: 25 minutes

 

2-3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as dressing if necessary

1 medium onion, chopped

Stalks of one medium fennel bulb, fibrous ends removed and lower tender portions chopped (of course, you can also use the bulb itself but I had only the stalks left and wanted to put them to use)

Kosher salt, to taste

5 cloves garlic, minced

3 small anchovy fillets or about 1 teaspoon anchovy paste

Freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces light canned tuna, drained and loosened up into large flakes. (If possible, use tuna packed in oil. If it’s packed in water, drain very well and dress with olive oil while flaking. Note: Skipjack and light albacore tuna are generally lower in mercury and less vulnerable to overfishing than many other varieties of tuna.)

2 cups chopped tomatoes, fresh or canned

¾ cup white wine

1 tablespoon finely chopped mint

1 tablespoon capers, lightly rinsed

Optional: 3 tablespoons minced fennel fronds

¼ cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 pound dry spaghetti pasta

 

1. Bring a large stockpot filled with water to a boil while you prepare the sauce.
   
2. Heat a wide saucepan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. When oil is hot, add onion, fennel, and a pinch of salt. Give it a few stirs to coat the vegetables with oil. Cook, stirring occasionally to prevent browning, until onion and fennel are softened, about 5 minutes. 
   
3. Stir in garlic, anchovies, and about 3 twists of pepper from a peppermill. Add another tablespoon of olive oil if mixture appears dry. Cook 3 minutes until anchovy has broken down and garlic is fragrant, stirring occasionally.
   
   
4. Stir in tuna, tomatoes, wine, and another pinch or so of salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. 
   
5. Add mint, capers, fennel fronds (if using), and parsley. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently for another 5 minutes. Turn off heat and stir in lemon juice. Salt to taste.
   
6. Cook the pasta until just al dente. Drain immediately and toss with sauce. Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil, if desired. Serve in shallow bowls while hot. 
   

 

Recipe: Kale and Sundried Tomato Pesto

It was a proud motherly moment for me when my younger kid (often referred to as the ‘picky eater’) added kale to the list of foods she’s willing to eat. I’m probably over-invested in what my children eat but after almost five years of seeing vegetables vehemently – and sometimes violently – rejected, I’m so relieved that a world beyond bread and rice is becoming less offensive to her. Kale is also one of my favorite veggies, so I was eager to find more ways to incorporate it into our family meals.

A recipe with the words “pesto” and “sundried tomato” may seem like a complete 80s throwback but my daughter wasn’t even a glimmer in my eye then so it’s all new to her. Besides, I could call this a raw foods pesto, and here we are right back in the new millennium. Of course, none of this matters. It’s yummy, easy to make, and packed with nutrients.

I generally like to toast nuts before adding them to a dish, but this time I didn’t. I had some raw almonds that were so deliciously fruity and had that slightly bitter pure almond flavor, I decided they’d be perfect without the heat.

This pesto is terrific spread on crackers, added to sandwiches, or tossed with fresh pasta. I also like to stuff it under the skin of a chicken before roasting it. It keeps well in the fridge, with a little extra olive oil drizzled on top, for about a week.

 

Makes 2 cups

Preparation time: 10 minutes

 

3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

¼ cup packed sundried tomatoes

½ cup raw almonds

¼ cup grated parmesan

Kosher salt, to taste

6 cups kale, ribs removed, roughly chopped

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

 

 

1. Place garlic, tomatoes, almonds, parmesan, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Add as much kale as will comfortably fit and pulse several times. Scrape down the sides of the processor, add the remaining kale and continue pulsing until all the ingredients are well combined and chopped fine.  
   Ignore those walnuts in there. It was better when I made this with raw almonds.
   
   
2. With the food processor running continuously, slowly drizzle in the olive oil through the feeder tube until the consistency of the pesto has gotten finer and the oil is well incorporated.
   Time to add the oil.
   
   
3. Use immediately or store covered in the refrigerator until ready to use.

 

Recipe: Orzo Pasta Salad with Tomato and Dill

If you’ve got a potluck or other occasion that calls for a dish that can be prepared in advance, consider making this orzo salad. In the recipe below, I say it serves 6 as a main dish, but it goes much farther when you are serving it alongside other dishes.

Speaking of potlucks, you know how sometimes luck has it that you end up with a bunch of foods that don't necessarily go so great together?  This salad works nicely with a range of dishes. With a mellow tomato base and bright accents of dill, capers, and feta, it stands out your palate without competing against what else is on your plate.

The cooking method is a little unconventional, but very easy. The pasta gets cooked only about halfway, less than al dente. Then the hot dressing is poured over it and the pasta soaks up the flavor while it softens to just the right texture.

 

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Serves 6 as a main dish

 

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

6 cloves garlic, minced (about 2 tablespoons)

¼ cup tomato paste

1 cup chicken broth (you can also use vegetarian broth)

Kosher salt, to taste

1 pound dried orzo pasta

3 tablespoons drained and rinsed capers

1 cup toasted slivered almonds

¼ cup minced fresh dill

½ cup feta cheese, crumbled or cut into small dice

lemon juice, to taste (I usually use about 2 teaspoons)

 

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
   
   
2. In a saucier or medium saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook an additional 3 minutes. Whisk in broth, bring to a simmer, and add salt to taste. Allow the tomato broth to simmer gently for about 5 minutes.
   
   
   
3. In the meanwhile, cook the pasta halfway, until it is softened on the outside, but still hard in the center.Drain the pasta and transfer to a large mixing bowl. 
    
4. Pour hot tomato dressing over the pasta and stir to combine. Add capers, almonds and most of the cheese and dill. (If not serving immediately, reserve almonds and stir in just before serving.) Stir in remaining olive oil. Add lemon juice and additional salt to taste. Garnish with remaining cheese and dill. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
   
   
   
   
   

Recipe: Pizzoccheri with Caramelized Onions

Some years I follow the Japanese tradition of eating long soba noodles on New Year's Eve, but tonight I am making a different kind of buckwheat noodle: short, wide pizzoccheri pasta. 

The long ingredient list and many steps may be off-putting at first glance, but the pace of preparing this dish is leisurely. And the rusticity of this Italian Alp classic permits you to be inexact. The cuts don’t have to look perfect and, with the exception of the pasta ingredients, the amounts are approximate. In fact, it would detract from the dish’s charm to make it too refined. So, while you might use a pasta machine here to make the rolling of the dough a little easier, don’t sweat it if you don’t have one. I didn’t even bother breaking mine out and had no problem using a rolling pin to get the dough thin enough.

This recipe is not entirely authentic. Instead of garlic, I used lightly caramelized onions, which I think always tastes so great with cabbage. And I don’t include quite as much butter as the restaurant versions I’ve had. When I’m cooking for myself, it’s hard to stomach seeing that much fat going into the pan. Anyway, I find this dish plenty rich enough with ½ stick of butter and a decent amount of cheese.

One final thing – I sometimes use kale as a substitute for the Savoy cabbage. Its earthy flavor and bright green color work nicely here.

Preparation Time: 50 minutes, plus 30 minutes-6 hours resting time for dough

Serves 4-6

¾ cup buckwheat flour

½ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 whole large egg, 3 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons milk

Kosher salt

2 medium onions, finely sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

4 small Yukon gold potatoes, scrubbed, with skin on and cut into ¼-inch slices (about 8-10 ounces)

2 cups Savoy cabbage, leaves cut into ½-inch by 4-inch strips

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter

1 tablespoon sage leaves, coarsely chopped

1 cup grated fontina cheese

½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

 

1. Combine the flours in a shallow mixing bowl. In a small bowl, gently beat eggs, milk, and pinch of salt together. Create a well in the middle of flour and pour egg mixture into well. Using your finger, gradually incorporate flour into egg mixture. Knead dough gently until it is smooth and well-formed. The dough will be just slightly tacky to the touch. If it is too sticky, dust dough with additional flour. Wrap the dough in plastic and allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes, or in the refrigerator for up to 6 hours.
   
   
2. Heat a wide, shallow pan over medium-high heat. Add olive oil. When oil is hot, add onion slices and a large pinch of salt. Stir to coat onions in oil. Once the onions have softened and shrunken slightly, reduce heat to low. Cook for another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are caramelized. Turn off heat and set aside.
   
3. While onions are cooking, bring a large stockpot of water to a boil. Cook potatoes until they are tender throughout, about 7 minutes. With a spider or slotted spoon, transfer cooked potatoes to pan with onions, reserving cooking water in stockpot.
   
4. Return water to a boil and cook cabbage until tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer cabbage to pan with potatoes and onions. Return cooking water to a boil.
   
5. Dust a clean surface lightly with flour and roll out pasta dough with a rolling pin as thinly as possible, less than 1/8-inch thick. Cut dough into ½-inch by 4-inch strips. Drop the strips into the boiling water in two batches. Cook for 3-5 minutes, until pasta floats and is just tender. Toss pasta in with cooked vegetables.
   
   
6. Over medium heat, melt butter in a small saucepan. When butter begins to foam, add sage and allow butter to brown lightly. Remove from heat.
   
7. Place about ¼ of tossed pasta and vegetables in the bottom of a warm serving platter. Drizzle in a small amount of sage brown butter. Sprinkle cheeses on top. Continue adding the components of the dish in layers: pasta/vegetables, sage butter, and cheese.
   
8. Grind black pepper over the dish and garnish with parsley. Serve immediately. 

 

Way Better Than Take-Out: Three Quick Pasta Dishes

My unabashedly domestic post...

During the week, when I walk in the door with two hungry and tired kids and am feeling cranky myself, it’s a great comfort to me that one of these pasta dishes is within reach. I plop the kids in front of an old Fraggle Rock episode, start boiling a large pot of water, and pour myself a glass of wine as I start with the simple prep work.

You’ll see right away, these are not lofty or ambitious dishes. But they are satisfying in the way that only simple home-cooking can be. They can all be made with pantry items or ingredients that store well in the fridge for some time. By the time the pasta is cooked, the other ingredients are ready to be tossed in, and the table is set. I can even pull together a simply dressed salad to go with the pasta by the time the kids’ show is done, or at least before they finally hang up their jackets and wash their hands.

-each ‘recipe’ serves four-

Pasta with Chickpeas and Prosciutto

Minute 1: Boil water. Open up a container of ricotta (about 1 cup) and let it come to room temperature. Get out a pound of pasta, olive oil, 8 sage leaves, 3 ounces of sliced prosciutto, 5 cloves of garlic, 2 cups cooked chickpeas, some chicken broth or white wine (if you have it), some red pepper flakes, salt and pepper.

Minute: 5: Drain and dry the chickpeas well. Set the table.

Minute 10: Salt the water generously and cook the pasta until al dente. While the pasta is cooking, heat a wide saucepan and add 2 tablespoons or so of olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the chickpeas. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are lightly toasted, about 5 minutes.

Minute 15: While the chickpeas are cooking, chop the sage, prosciutto, and peel and sliver the garlic. Add them to the chickpeas, along with a pinch (or so, to taste) of red pepper flakes in olive oil. (For my kids, I hold off on adding the red pepper until after the sage, prosciutto, and garlic have cooked for a few minutes. Then I set some of the mixture aside for them and add the red pepper to what remains in the pan.) After 3-4 minutes, pour in about ½ cup of broth, white wine, or pasta water, deglazing the bottom of the pan. Season with salt and pepper.

Minute 20: Drain the pasta. Portion the pasta into 4 shallow bowls, spoon the chick pea mixture over it, adding some pasta water to moisten. Drizzle additional olive oil on the pasta and top with a large spoonful of ricotta.

 

Cheese Ravioli with Tomato, Rosemary, and Garlic

Minute 1: Boil water. Get out a pound of fresh or frozen cheese-filled pasta (of course, if you have made your own, following Anna Klinger's pasta-making tips, all the better), olive oil, 1 sprig of rosemary, 4 cloves of garlic, 1 26-ounce box of crushed tomatoes, olive oil, salt, pepper, and a chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano. (I actually also like a little pancetta and red pepper flakes in this dish, too. If you are so inclined, add them as well.)

Minute 5: Set the table.

Minute 8: Chop rosemary, mince garlic. Heat a wide saucepan and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the rosemary and garlic (and chopped pancetta and red pepper flakes, if using). Cook for about 2 minutes, until the mixture is fragrant. Add the tomatoes. Bring to a gentle simmer. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Minute 10:  Salt the water generously and cook the pasta until the ravioli float and are cooked through, but still al dente.

Minute 15: With a slotted spoon or spider, transfer the ravioli into shallow dishes. Add the tomato sauce and grate fresh cheese over it.

 

Penne with Smoked Salmon, Peas, and Herb Cream Sauce

Minute 1: Boil water. Get out a pound of penne pasta, 1 cup of cream, ½ cup of garlic and herb cream cheese (or a slightly smaller amount of boursin cheese), 2 cups of frozen peas, 4 ounces of smoked salmon, fresh flat-leaf parsley, a lemon, salt and pepper. (Instead of the peas, I’ll sometimes use artichoke hearts, either frozen or from the jar. Smoked chicken breast and roasted red pepper also work well in place of the salmon and peas.)

Minute 5: Set the table.

Minute 8: Chop about 2-3 tablespoons of parsley.

Minute 10:  Salt the water generously and cook the pasta until al dente. While the pasta is cooking, heat the cream and cream cheese in a wide saucepan over medium-low, stirring to combine well. Place a colander in the sink and put the frozen peas in the colander.

Minute 15: Cut the salmon into small bite-size pieces.

Minute 19: Stir salmon and parsley into the cream sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste and squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice for balance, as needed.

Minute 20: Drain the pasta in the colander, allowing the peas to heat up from the draining cooking water.  Toss the pasta and peas into the cream to coat. Transfer to a serving platter or individual dishes and serve immediately. 

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Recipe: Penne with Fennel Pesto

This is a pesto that I learned to make during my externship at Craft. It was a dish that was prepared for the staff ‘family meal.’ The fennel bulbs were used for dishes on the menu, and all the fronds were left over. They were put to good use in this pesto that, at first glance, looks like the more common basil pesto. The taste is not unlike basil pesto, in that it has garlic, olive oil, nuts and parmesan cheese. But the fennel fronds have a fresh, green, and lightly anise-scented flavor that distinguishes it from the richly perfumed taste of basil.

When I have fennel at home, I get the most out of it by preparing the bulb one day (I love it roasted) and making the pesto out of the fronds on another day. You’ll have enough pesto left over from this pasta recipe to put in sandwiches or to brush onto some grilled fish.

 

Makes 4 servings, plus leftover pesto

Preparation time: 30 minutes

 

1/3 cup pistachios, toasted

1-2 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

1 ounce (about ½ cup) freshly grated Parmesan

1 teaspoon salt, plus more for pasta water

Ground black pepper, to taste

2 cups lightly packed fennel fronds (usually from 2 fennel bulbs with a good amount of fronds on them)

optional: 4-5 mint leaves, torn

about ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

juice of ½ lemon, or to taste

1 pound penne pasta

1 cup frozen peas

 

1. Put the pistachios, garlic, cheese, salt, and pepper in a food processor. Pulse a few times to grind slightly.

   click to enlarge

2. Add fennel and mint, if using, to the food processor. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil until the mixture is reduced to a paste and has a spreadable, but not greasy consistency. Taste and add salt if necessary. Squeeze in a little bit of lemon juice to taste.
   

   
    click to enlarge 

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.  Salt the water generously and cook the pasta until al dente.
4. While the pasta is cooking, set up a colander in the sink and put the frozen peas in it. (If you have fresh peas, by all means use them. You can add them to the boiling water in the last few minutes of cooking the pasta.)

5. When the pasta is done, drain the pasta in the colander. Return the pasta, along with the peas, into the pot. Stir in the pesto until pasta is lightly coated and flavorful. Squeeze in a little lemon juice, to taste.

   

     click to enlarge

6. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Recipe: Orecchiette with Lamb and Meyer Lemon Yogurt Dressing

The other day I got my first glimpse of this year's Meyer lemons. I scooped up a couple and resolved to do something with them. The opportunity came on Friday evening, when a childhood friend was coming over for dinner. I based this recipe on one that I read a few years ago in the NY Times. Her favorite pasta dish in third grade was baked ziti, so I wasn't sure how lamb and orecchiette would go over. We all had seconds though, and then dug into the beautiful cupcakes that she brought. If only I still had the metabolism of a third-grader...

Meyer lemons are sweeter and more fragrant than regular lemons. If you can't get Meyers, you could use the juice and zest of one regular lemon (in place of the two Meyer lemons) and the zest of one orange.

By the way, you might notice I've made an addition to the recipe since I shot the photo of the pasta: pine nuts. I think it adds a nice textural balance and highlights the nuttiness of the brown butter.

Serves Four

Preparation time: 30 minutes

1 cup Greek-style yogurt

Grated zest and juice from 2 Meyer lemons

Kosher salt, to taste

7 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large shallot, minced

5 cloves garlic, minced

½ teaspoon ground cumin

pinch red pepper flakes

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 pound ground lamb

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish

1 bunch (about 6 cups) baby (or young) spinach leaves, washed and dried

1 pound orecchiette pasta

¼ cup pine nuts

1. Boil a large pot of water for the pasta.
2. Stir together the yogurt, lemon juice, lemon zest, and a large pinch of salt. Set aside.
3. In a large skillet, heat one tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Stir in the shallots and garlic, along with a pinch of salt. Cook until softened, about 2 minutes.
4. Add the cumin, red pepper flakes, and black pepper. After about 30 seconds or so, when the spices are fragrant, add the lamb.
5. Break the lamb up with a wooden spoon or spatula and salt the lamb with about ½ teaspoon of salt, or to taste. Stir occasionally and cook until lamb is broken up into small bits and is fully cooked.
6. With a large spoon, remove any excessive fat that accumulated while the lamb cooked.
7. Fold in the spinach leaves and cook for another minute or so, until the spinach is wilted.
8. While the lamb and spinach are cooking, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain the pasta. In a large pot or pan, dress the pasta with the yogurt and lemon dressing.
9. Melt the remaining 6 tablespoons of butter in a small pan. When it starts to foam, add the pinenuts. Cook, stirring, until butter and pinenuts are golden.
10. Stir the lamb and spinach into the pasta and portion the pasta into four shallow bowls.
11. Drizzle the melted butter and pinenuts over the pasta and sprinkle additional mint on top.

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Recipe: Baked Macaroni and Cheese, Plus Truffle and Cauliflower Variation

This is a classic, homey macaroni and cheese adapted from Joy of Cooking. It's my standby dish for when a sitter is coming over; I can make it in advance and the kids love it. There's a Bechamel cream sauce slide show that shows how easy it is to make this key component of many recipes.

See below for a sophisticated version with truffle cheese and cauliflower.


4 tablespoons butter, plus extra for greasing baking dish.

¼ cup all-purpose flour

4 cups milk

½ teaspoon mustard powder

½ teaspoon sweet paprika OR ¼ teaspoon of cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

1 lb (about 4 ½ cups) grated Cheddar and Colby cheese

1 lb box elbow pasta, cooked until just tender

1 cup breadcrumbs tossed with 2 tablespoons melted butter


1. Butter a lasagna or large casserole pan and preheat oven to 350°F.

2. (See Bechamel demo) Melt butter in a large saucepan, whisk in flour and cook, whisking for 3 minutes, until mixture is just slightly golden.

3. Gradually whisk in milk and spices and simmer gently, stirring often to prevent clumps, about 20 minutes. Milk should be slightly thickened. Add salt.

4. Remove milk mixture (Bechamel) from heat and stir in 3/4 of the cheese until smooth.

5. Stir macaroni into the cheese sauce.

6. Pour the macaroni mixture in the casserole pan and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. 

7. Sprinkle breadcrumb mixture on top and bake until breadcrumbs are slightly browned and cheese is bubbling, about 30 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Truffle and Cauliflower Variation

Instead of Cheddar and Colby cheeses, use a semi-soft truffle cheese like Sottocenere with truffles and a mild, semi-soft to hard Italian cheese like Fontina or Montasio. Mix about 1 cup of small steamed cauliflower florets into the sauce along with the cooked macaroni. Before serving, sprinkle with about 2 tablespoons of fresh chopped flat-leaf parsley.

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Recipe: Chilled Sesame Noodles

 Most of the ingredients in this recipe can be stored in the pantry, so this dish can easily be made at the spur of the moment. The fresh vegetables can be substituted with whatever is in season or happens to be in your fridge. You can also make it in advance; just keep the noodles and dressing refrigerated separately until close to serving time.

This is a great dish for a potluck or picnic. I've also found that many kids (including mine) like making and eating this dish.

Serves four as a side dish.

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

2 teaspoons lime juice

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon tahini

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

8 oz spaghetti, cooked al dente and cooled (read more about cooking pasta in this Interruption on Al Dente)

8 oz silken tofu, diced

2-3 scallions, white and light green parts thinly sliced

1 cup green beans, steamed and cut into 1-inch lengths

1. Whisk together soy sauce, vinegar, lime juice, sugar, tahini, sesame oil, and sesame seeds.

2. Pour about ¾ of the dressing on the noodles.

3. Garnish with tofu, scallions, green beans

4. Drizzle a few additional tablespoons over the vegetables and tofu, enough to moisten.

5. Chill in the refrigerator for 3o minutes and serve.

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