Recipe, interrupted

Recipe: Root Vegetable Hash with Ramps and Fried Egg

I hope you’ll feel free to adjust the ingredients and amounts in this very loose recipe as you see fit. Parsnips, turnips, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and/or carrots all work nicely here. I also add celery – ok, not exactly a root, but it tastes good in here.

The main idea is to pan roast the veggies until they are tender, lightly browned, and aromatic. Then comes the kicker: stir in some chopped ramps in the last few minutes of cooking. Ramps, or wild leeks, add an earthy, delicately garlicky flavor that makes this a uniquely springtime dish.

With a fried egg on top, it’s hearty enough to eat as a main course. My favorite part is piercing into the yolk and letting it run over the vegetables as a rich dressing. 

Serves 4

Preparation time: 30 minutes

 

For the vegetable hash:

4 ounces bacon, diced

About ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

About 2 pounds of mixed root vegetables such as turnips, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, cut into small dice

2 stalks celery (or try a small fennel bulb for a different, sweeter flavor), cut into small dice

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 big fistful of ramps (about 6 ounces), white parts finely chopped and leaves roughly chopped

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat leaf parsley

Fresh lemon juice, to taste
 

For the eggs:

2 tablespoons olive oil or unsalted butter

4 eggs

 

1. Cook the bacon in a skillet or Dutch oven over medium-low heat, adding a small amount of olive oil if necessary, until bacon is crispy and fat is rendered, about 7 minutes.
   
   
2. Increase heat to medium-high, add root vegetables, celery, thyme, a dash of salt, black pepper, and 2-3 tablespoons olive oil. Make sure to not to crowd the skillet or Dutch oven or the vegetables will not brown as nicely and will tend toward the soggy side. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are cooked through and lightly browned, about 15-20 minutes.
   
   
3. Stir in ramps and cook for another 2 minutes. Turn off heat and stir in parsley. Salt to taste. Drizzle a small amount of olive oil and a few squeezes of lemon juice over vegetables.  
   
4. Heat a sauté pan over medium high heat and add olive oil or butter. When fat is hot, crack eggs into pan, add a pinch of salt to them and cook until whites are set and yolks are still soft and runny.
   
5. Spoon vegetable hash onto plates or in shallow bowls. Gently lay eggs on top and serve hot.

Recipe: Devilled Eggs with Smoked Paprika and Tarragon

Here’s an idea for those leftover Easter eggs. After all the fuss in the kitchen this weekend, these came together quickly and disappeared even more quickly. I’m a big fan of smoked paprika, which goes really nicely here with the egg yolks, shallots, low-fat mayonnaise (a small repentance for the Easter brunch gluttony), mustard, and a little sprinkle of fresh tarragon. If you want to fancy the eggs up a bit, use a pastry tube to fill the eggs. I just spooned the filling right into the yolks.

 

Makes 6 devilled eggs

Preparation time: 10 minutes

 

3 hard-boiled eggs, cooled

1 teaspoon minced shallots

4 teaspoons mayonnaise

¼ teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon mustard (I used Colman’s which is hot and just a tad sweet; Dijon mustard would also be good)

Minced fresh tarragon, as garnish

Pinch Kosher salt, to taste

 

1. Cut eggs in half lengthwise. Scoop or pop out the yolks into a small mixing bowl.
   
   
2. Add shallots, mayonnaise, paprika, mustard and salt to yolks. With an electric hand mixer, blend the ingredients on medium speed until smooth and slightly lightened, about 3 minutes.
   
   
3. Lay the egg whites face up and spoon the filling into the egg white hollows.
    
4. Sprinkle with a few bits of minced tarragon.
   
   
5. Serve immediately or refrigerate.

Recipe: Leek and Sausage Frittata

There are so many variations on this theme, this recipe is just one example that you could use as a guideline. If you stick with the basic formula of egg + dairy + add-ins, you can get creative with just about anything in your fridge.

Because you don’t have to flip it or stir the eggs, this frittata is much easier to make than an omelet. And when you prepare it in a small skillet it comes out nice and thick like a quiche.

 

Serves 4

Preparation time: 20 minutes

 

2 medium-sized leeks, washed, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

2 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt, to taste

6 eggs

¼ cup heavy cream or half-and-half

¼ cup ¼-inch cubes dry sausage (or cooked bacon)

½ cup peas (if fresh, blanched; if frozen, defrosted)

¾ cup cubed sharp white cheddar cheese

 

1. Heat a medium pan over a moderate flame and add 2 tablespoons of oil. When oil is hot, add leeks and a large pinch of salt. Stir to coat well with oil and cook until leeks are softened, stirring occasionally to prevent browning, about 7 minutes.
   
   
2. In a small mixing bowl, beat together eggs, cream (or half-and-half), and a pinch or so of salt.
   
   
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
    
4. Preheat a small, oven-proof skillet (I prefer cast iron) over a moderate flame. When oil is hot, transfer leeks into pan and stir in sausage and peas, spreading them evenly in the pan. Pour egg mixture over vegetables and sausage and reduce heat to medium-low. Sprinkle cheese on top. Cook on the stove for a few minutes, just until the edges begin to set.
   
   
   
   
5. Transfer skillet to oven and cook until eggs are set throughout and the top is golden, about 5 minutes.
   
   
6. Remove from oven and let cool for a few minutes before transferring to a serving platter. Slice and serve hot or at room temperature.

 

Recipe: Potato Pancakes with Seasonal Vegetables, Scape Pesto and Poached Eggs

 
This is a brunch special that can be adapted for any season. Or adapted for any meal. I served this dish for dinner tonight. It was perfect for an early summer’s night – fresh and vegetal but substantial enough to be satisfying. In this photo, I prepared the pancakes with a blend of potatoes and turnips and served them with sautéed asparagus and mushrooms and a garlic scape pesto, along with the poached eggs. You can use other vegetables with the potatoes with other vegetables instead of turnips – zucchini or sweet potato come to mind. In place of a pesto, you can serve the pancakes with crème fraiche. And the asparagus and mushrooms can be substituted with variations such as sauteed spinach, chopped fresh tomato, or a crab hash. 

For tips on making pesto, see my pesto how-to slideshow on Serious Eats. 

Serves 6 

Preparation time: 45 minutes 

 

For the pesto: 

1 cup scapes, roughly chopped

 ¼ cup toasted blanched almonds

¼ cup grated parmesan cheese

½ cup flat leaf parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

juice of half lemon

about ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

 

For the pancakes: 

1 ½ pounds Yukon gold potatoes, or a blend of Yukon gold potatoes and turnips, peeled and grated

1 small onion, grated

2 eggs

2 tablespoons potato starch (or corn starch)

1 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus additional, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Neutral high-heat cooking oil, such as grapeseed

 

For the vegetables: 

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 bunch (1 pound) asparagus, cut into 1-inch lengths

8 ounces assorted mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed (see my mushroom cleaning and trimming how-to), and thinly sliced

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1/ 4 cup or so white wine.

 

For the eggs: 

6 eggs

2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar

 

 

1. Prepare the pesto in a food processor by pulsing all the ingredients except the olive oil together until finely chopped. With the processor running, drizzle in the olive oil until the pesto has a fairly loose and drizzle-able texture. Taste and adjust season as necessary. Set aside.
    
2. Combine well all the potato pancake ingredients together in a mixing bowl using your hands or a rubber spatula. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat, add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan with about 1/8-inch depth. When the oil is hot, spread the batter into 3- to 4-inch rounds. Brown well on both sides, about 8 minutes, total. As they finish, let them drain for a minute or so on paper towels. Keep them warm in a 200°F oven.   
   
3. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add asparagus and mushrooms, stirring to coat evenly with oil. When vegetables are lightly colored and slightly softened, after about 5 minutes, stir in salt to taste and cook another minute. Add wine, stir and cook another 2 minutes or so. Remove from heat.  
4. Fill a saucier or wide shallow saucepan about 2 inches deep with water and bring to a simmer. Add vinegar. One at a time, crack eggs into water. (I like to drop the eggs into a ladle that is immersed in the water to control spreading for a few seconds and then release the egg to cook further.) Poach the eggs for about 3 minutes, until the whites are set and yolks are still soft.  
5. To assemble individual servings: Stack two pancakes on a plate, slightly overlapping. Spoon over vegetables. Place an egg on top. Drizzle pesto around the edge of the plate. Repeat for other servings. 

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Recipe: Escarole Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette

The dressing for this salad is a great one to have in your arsenal. It works really well for spinach and frisee salads as well. 

I've always loved to braise escarole, but after having it in a fresh salad at Al Di La in Park Slope, Brooklyn, I was thrilled to find another preparation for it.

Serves 4
Preparation time: 25 minutes

1 small head of escarole, ripped into bite-size pieces, washed and dried well – about 6 cups
4 eggs
2 teaspoons white vinegar
3 slices bacon, cut cross-wise into 1/4-inch strips
1-2 tablespoons olive oil, as needed
1 small shallot, minced
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon lemon juice 
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 radishes, thinly sliced
1/2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

 

1. Put the escarole in a large salad bowl and set aside.
2. Cook bacon in a skillet over low heat until crispy, about 5 minutes or so. Turn heat to low and transfer bacon to drain on paper towels.

 
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3. While the bacon is cooking, poach the eggs: put enough water in a wide saucepan so that it is about 2 inches deep. Bring the water to a simmer and stir in the white vinegar. Lower the heat so that the water is at a very gentle simmer and carefully cracking each egg into a round cookie cutter or a ladle immersed in the water. After about 10 seconds, when the egg is beginning to set, remove the cookie cutter or ladle and continue with the next eggs. Poach all four eggs in this manner until the whites are set and the yolks are still very soft, about 3 minutes. Transfer eggs to a shallow bowl with a small amount of water in it, just enough to prevent the eggs from sticking to the bottom of the plate. Set aside.

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4. You should have about 2 tablespoons of rendered bacon fat in the skillet. Supplement with 1-2 tablespoons olive oil, as necessary.
5. Add the shallot to the skillet and cook until softened, about 30 seconds. Turn off the heat.
   

   
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6. Whisk vinegar, mustard, and lemon juice into the skillet. Season with salt and pepper.

   

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7. Drizzle the warm dressing over the escarole, toss to coat evenly. Using a slotted spoon, gently place the poached eggs on the escarole. Garnish the salad with the radishes, walnuts, and bacon. Serve immediately. 

 

 

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